40 years in Plummer’s Hollow: an interview with my dad

Bruce BontaDave Bonta: Can you remember your first reaction to the property? What impressed you the most?

Bruce Bonta: Forty years ago, on August 19, 1971, Fred A. Good and his wife Madeline M. Good signed over to your mother and me a deed for approximately 143 acres on Brush Mountain. My first reaction to this property was, wow, what are we getting ourselves in for? How am I going to keep this 1.5 mile long road open so I can commute to Penn State during the winter? Also, the 42 half-culvert breakwater pipes across the road, with heavy steel gratings on top, were all filled with silt and weeds. I realized I faced some serious maintenance challenges. I decided that I would need a tractor and a large rotary cutter if I wanted to keep open the woods roads and the fields. I felt excited, challenged, and perhaps a bit apprehensive during that first year until I realized we would, indeed, be able to make a go of it.

DB: How did Central Pennsylvania differ from other places you’ve lived? And how have your impressions of it changed over the years?

BB: We had lived on a farm in Maine for five years, but the vegetation was quite different — many evergreens there, mostly deciduous trees here. Our farm in Maine was directly on a paved highway — few people would be crazy enough to live year round very far from a public road. But our place in Plummer’s Hollow had one significant benefit over Maine: no black flies. May would prove to be a beautiful season, not a dreadful ordeal as it was in the north woods.

DB: You took the lead role in the 14-year battle to keep the hollow from being lumbered. What stands out to you from that time? What would you have done differently, with the benefit of hindsight?

BB: The various battles that I fought from 1978 through 1992 to protect our access road were stressful. I did some things right, and won some of those contests, particularly the early ones. Since a lumbering operation in the hollow would have severely harmed our access road, I acted quickly. A visit to our congressman’s office in Washington produced decisions that effectively prevented the lumberman from taking out truckloads of logs. Unable to truck off his timber, he was able to do only a limited amount of harm. We subsequently bought that piece of property. I was less successful in preventing subsequent lumbering operations — the laws favor the removal of trees from private property — but suffice it to say, we ultimately bought the second and third tracts of land in the hollow with some, then with most, of the timber already removed. By 1992, we owned the entire watershed of the Plummer’s Hollow Run, a first order stream.

DB: What have been the biggest changes to the natural environment on this end of Brush Mountain over the past 40 years, in your estimation, both for the better and for the worse? Which changes have surprised you the most?

BB: Let me answer that by focusing on our management strategies over the years, some of which, I feel, have made a significant difference to the health of the land. For instance, due to the deteriorating condition of the forest understory, we decided in 1992 that we had too many deer on our property, a conclusion that a visiting biologist confirmed. This prompted me to decide to manage the deer herd better, by managing the hunters more effectively. I closed the property to general hunting and posted it for hunting by written permission only. Our new policy, of cultivating friendships with excellent hunters, has given us great results. We have seen huge numbers of deer taken off each year plus major improvements in the understory and the forest as a whole.

I also decided, in the 1970s, to keep the First Field open as a meadow, and not let it revert back to a closed-canopy forest, as it would have done naturally. I had to cut the field with the Bush Hog, but learned, over the years, to mow less and less in order to foster the development of our “old growth” meadow of today. Other management decisions have affected the property too, though perhaps in less obvious ways. I introduced warm season, native grasses, purchased from a seed company in Western PA, about 10 years ago, and have subsequently spread the seeds on disturbed areas. About 15 years ago, you helped me put up a small deer exclosure fence near the Far Field, an experiment that prompted us to erect, with the help of our hunter friends, a second, three-acre exclosure in the old dump area in 2001. The two exclosures have demonstrated the effects of controlling the deer overpopulation to everyone who visits Plummer’s Hollow.

DB: Living on a mountaintop, we’ve weathered a lot of interesting storms in the past 40 years. Which ones impressed you the most?

BB: Several sleet storms have proven to be challenging. If conditions are right, the sleet pellets slide down the steep slopes in the lower portions of the hollow, filling in the road. Then, as the sleet storm ends, the temperature typically warms up for a period of hours, fusing everything into a solid mass, before then turning cold and freezing the slope. We are left with a rock hard, 40 percent sloping surface of ice in the lower part of the hollow, a condition that no snow plow can break through. Once, a large bulldozer could barely make it up the road. We bought a modest sized, 13 ton bulldozer to break out going down the road for those sleet storm occasions.

DB: How has your perception of the natural world changed over the years as a result of living here? Or, to put it differently: How has living here informed your understanding of nature and biodiversity?

BB: One thing I have learned over the years is that, for me, forest stewardship should be defined as a process of waiting and watching, not a process of blindly accepting the recommendations of people with credentials. They don’t necessarily know our ground — they don’t live here as we do. For instance, living here and maintaining the road as I’ve done for so many years, I’ve learned that the color of the stream after a storm is a good indicator of my effectiveness as a land steward. If it turns brown, if it has some silt in it, I am at fault. I am not managing correctly. The road, the garden, the latest digging project — something is wrong. When you own an entire watershed, even if it is small, you can’t blame problems on anyone else.

DB: We’ve hosted a lot of visitors over the years, and seen a lot of interesting reactions to the place. Which reactions have surprised or impressed you the most?

BB: I have learned to overlook most of the “what do you do up here” or “how do you get in and out in the winter” or “I’d love to live up here but my spouse…” kinds of questions. I try to impress on visitors the importance of living lightly, enjoying nature, and relying mostly on reading and family for entertainment.

DB: You were part of the “back to the land” movement, both here and previously in Maine. Now there’s a whole new generation getting into small-scale farming and sustainability. What advice would you give to kids starting out? How should they try and balance their needs with the needs of wildlife?

BB: While all of our gardening and raising animals in the 1970s and 1980s did help our budget, the activity that I most enjoyed was beekeeping. I found that working with the little critters was gentle, quieting, and satisfying. The bees are completely wild animals. I was just helping them do their thing better, so they could produce some surplus honey that they could share with me. If I had realized that the arrival of bears on the mountain in the late 1980s would result in the destruction of the bee hives, I might have put in stout fences and continued as an apiculturist. Beekeeping showed that it is possible to manage WITH nature, rather than just manage for ourselves.

DB: In the language of real estate, human developments are viewed as “improvements,” even if they are disastrous for wildlife. But suppose we were to take a more eco-centric view. Have we, in fact, improved the property during our tenancy here, do you think?

BB: I suppose we have, at least a little. By forbidding logging over the past 40 years, we’ve allowed the property to heal itself, at least to some extent. But some of our necessary management practices, such as maintaining the essential Plummer’s Hollow Road, are inherently detrimental to the land. The road represents a sword thrust deep into the belly of the forest. There’s no way around that.

DB: How do you envision Plummer’s Hollow 40 years from now, or 100?

BB: The future of the land will depend on the easement that we design, and the future ownership that your mother and I decide upon, with input from our three sons, of course.

DB: Any concluding thoughts?

BB: Over the years, particularly during the lumbering battles of the 1980s and 1990s, I began to really dislike the concept of private land ownership. Landowners often view their deeds filed in courthouses as permits to despoil the lands that they “own.” It may sound trite to suggest that if we would begin to modify this concept of private land ownership, the entire relationship of humanity with the earth could be gradually changed.

Also, I would observe that living here for 40 years has prompted ever closer relationships to grow between your mother and me. I have learned to defer to her wisdom and experience when it comes to natural occurrences, and she normally respects my decisions relating to management issues. This sort of partnership has been fostered by the complexity of our property. Though we would certainly have remained a close couple had we lived in the suburbs, the ownership of such unique land prompts us to work together, to learn from each other, and to share our insights and decisions.

Finally, I have found that my peace research, particularly my obsession with peaceful societies, has been supported by the peacefulness of the place where we live. I frequently go for walks to help solve problems. Wording comes to me, solutions pop up, the essence of things becomes more clear when I go outside. Gandhi went for daily walks throughout his life and he didn’t live on a place like this. These 648 acres help make me a more peaceful person.

Visit Bruce Bonta on the web at PeacefulSocieties.org.

Living with wrens: 40 years in Plummer’s Hollow

Carolina wren silhoutte
Carolina wren silhouette

Teakettle, teakettle, teakettle chants the Carolina wren from my front porch, seemingly unfazed by this morning’s rain and gloom. I smile at what I can’t help hearing as irrepressible ebullience, though quite possibly to the wren its song conveys matters of urgency and deep seriousness.

August is the quietest time of the year for birdsong. The neotropical migrant hordes whose songs made the woods ring in May and June are mostly done raising their broods, and many species are in the midst of their molt and lying low. So the Carolina wren’s song is more welcome than ever — especially considering that we didn’t have any of them nesting around the houses this spring, for whatever reason. A couple pairs nested elsewhere in the hollow, Mom said, and are now dispersing, some to breed a second time this season. Which may very well be what my front-porch wren has been so excited about the last couple of days. Continue reading “Living with wrens: 40 years in Plummer’s Hollow”

John Davis visits Plummer’s Hollow as part of TrekEast

Cross-posted to the Plummer’s Hollow website.

John Davis photographing downy rattlesnake plantain in our 3-acre deer exclosure

UPDATE (6/22): Listen to Emily Reddy’s interview with John in Plummer’s Hollow for a news story on our local NPR station, WPSU.

(For the record, Bruce Bonta is Marcia Bonta’s husband, not her son! I’m the son.)

*

We’ve been honored to host John Davis from the Wildlands Network for two nights in Plummer’s Hollow as part of his epic, 6,000-mile muscle-powered journey to raise awareness of wildlands connectivity in the eastern U.S. and Canada. He started in Key Largo in February and hopes to make it to the Gaspe Peninsula by October, traveling by boat, hiking, and biking, visiting as many wildlands in the East as possible. You can follow along via the TrekEast blog on the Wildlands Network website and/or follow @TrekEast on Twitter for more up-to-the-minute photos and brief audio blogposts.

John pitched camp in the woods up beyond the garage, and uploaded three different audio posts last night and this morning, before getting underway around 7:00.

Woodrat (2:48)

Energy Assault (3:04)

Nature and Energy (3:21)

John Davis' campsite in Plummer's HollowJohn was one of the founders of Wild Earth magazine and the Wildlands Project, as it was then called, which together played a pivotal role in shaping our own thinking as eco-centric forest stewards, helping us see how our property fit into the larger conservation picture, and making us strong advocates for ecosystem recovery and large carnivore restoration, among other things. So we were pleased to be able to meet John and show him around the property, and compare notes about the environmental movement over the past 25 years. Also, as a long-time blogger and multimedia guy, I must say I’m very impressed by the electronic communications system John and his support staff have set up. He’s an excellent extemporaneous speaker, as the audio posts demonstrate, and also a gifted listener, so if you get a chance to go see him as TrekEast continues, don’t miss it. (His next appearance is this very evening in State College — see the Centre Daily Times for details.)

John Davis - heading out

Curating the Dead

This entry is part 10 of 20 in the series Highgate Cemetery Poems

Broken-nosed cherub

They were the grinning stars
of our childhood museum,
looming above the conches
& fossil ferns, the brain coral
& the blue & green glass bottles
that once held medicine.
We’d found them in the woods
not far from the houses,
their other bones littered about,
but it was only them we carried
home, those skulls: two cows & a mule.
Our elderly neighbor remembered
the mule’s name: Charlie.
Some of the teeth were loose
& soon went missing,
like strip-mined mountains.

We didn’t think about their deaths
or even what they’d been
before, as working livestock;
they were still live enough for us.
The zigzag sutures where
the parts of the skull fit together
made them self-evidently whole
& perfect, & the way the lower jaws
hinged behind the empty eyes
inspired awe. Every kid,
no matter how bored, would stop,
lift the mule’s top jaw
& make him talk.

Morning porch mystery

squirrel window

So yeah, as I was saying, a squirrel’s head suddenly appears over the edge of the porch roof as I’m sitting out drinking my coffee this morning around 7:30. Looks at me for half a minute. Disappears. I hear it skitter off across the roof and around the back of the house.

A little while later, a movement off to my right catches my eye. There’s the squirrel — or maybe another squirrel; I’m not too good at telling them apart — sitting on its haunches on the sidewalk at the edge of the porch, and just as before, it’s staring intently in my direction. Well, they do that sometimes, I say to myself. Except then it trots over, click click click click click, goes right under my plastic stack chair, and stops.

So there I am with my feet propped up on the rail and a squirrel under my chair, and I gotta tell you, I’m starting to get nervous. This isn’t some college campus where squirrels have long ago lost their fear of humans through prolonged exposure to idiots with peanuts. Squirrels are wary creatures on the mountain, and with good reason: sometimes they got shot at. Quite often they get shooed out of birdfeeders by shrieking people brandishing brooms. But this squirrel (a) has exhibited a total lack of fear of me, and (b) is sitting, as I mentioned, directly underneath my butt. I know they say that rodents never get rabies, but I’ve just read a press release from the Pennsylvania Game Commission verifying that an attack beaver in Philadelphia, which bit three people before they blew it away, tested positive for rabies, so all bets are off as far as I’m concerned.

Two minutes go by. I can’t take it anymore. “Hey buddy, watcha doin’ under there?” I say loudly. No response. I stand up, take a long step away from the chair, and look: no squirrel. What the hell?

There are only two other pieces of furniture on the porch, and they flank the chair: my ratty old end-table on the right, and a white wicker settee-type thing on the left. The former provides no cover, and I examine all around the other: nothing. I lift it up and look underneath, even knowing there’s no way the squirrel could’ve gotten under it without making a sound. In fact, the squirrel couldn’t have gone anywhere without making a sound. It’s a wood floor, there’s nothing wrong with my hearing, and besides, I was on high alert. The only possible explanation, my dad agrees when I tell him the story an hour later, is that I have somehow acquired some kind of wormhole or portal to another universe directly under my chair. I mean, I’d be happy to hear alternate explanations, but I’ve been thinking about this all day and I have yet to come up with one.

I don’t expect the world to make sense all the time. I accept that any worldview, no matter how firmly based in science, cannot account for all phenomena, and that deciding what to believe about the way things work comes down to picking the least objectionable mass delusion. But is it too much to ask for a little self-consistency? In my universe, squirrels don’t scamper under one’s plastic stack chair and disappear. It’s simply not done. Maybe in your universe — that’s fine. But mine makes sense… in fact, too much sense sometimes. It has laws of physics in effect. If it didn’t, I probably wouldn’t feel compelled to spend all my time scribbling poetry just to mess with my sense of reality. You know what I mean? Every morning would be an adventure straight out of Terry Pratchett’s Discworld novels. Hell, I might not even have to blog.

(K)nots

socket 1

With some trees, the knotholes are the last things to go. You can find them staring up from the ground, eye sockets that never belonged to a skull.

socket 3

It makes sense that trees would grow their hardest wood around the weakest points in their architecture. This is called the branch collar, and it is knit with wood first from the branch overlapping onto the trunk, and then from the trunk overlapping onto the branch.

socket 2

Behind the collar, in the parent trunk or limb, the branch core forms. As the Wikipedia entry on branch collars puts it,

The accretion of layers of wood behind the branch collar is a conical decay-resistant structure called the branch core. The knot found in lumber is this branch core.

When woody plants naturally shed branches because they are nonproductive, usually from lack of light, these branches die back to the branch collar. Insects and fungi decompose the dead branch, and it eventually falls off, leaving the exposed branch core. The branch core resists the spread of decay organisms into the parent branch or trunk during the time it takes for the woundwood, or callus, to seal over the wound.

socket 4

There are intergrown and encased knots, loose and sound and pin knots, red knots and black knots. Whatever you call them, though, they can’t be untied. So they are not really knots, but heads — what else goes through a collar? — dense, convoluted, and all too easy to lose.

For the Festival of the Trees.

Link roundup: Nanopressing, bombs not food, and carnivores after dark

Nanopress Publishing: alternative poetry publishing, with gravitas
The indefatigable Nic S. has set up a website to advocate the new model of poetry publishing she’s pioneering with her own book, Forever Will End on Thursday (which I’ll be blogging next month).

The nanopress is a single-publication, purpose-formed poetry press that brings together, on a one-time basis, an independent editor’s judgment and gravitas and a poet’s manuscript. The combination effectively by-passes both the poetry-contest gamble and the dwindling opportunities offered by existing poetry presses, while still applying credible ‘quality control’ measures to the published work.

Join the discussion about this new paradigm at Nic’s blog — in particular, a post titled “Nanopress poetry publishing: Avoiding the publisher’s cycle of need.” Beth Adams, Ren Powell, Sarah Busse, and Rachel Barenblat are among the contributors to the comment thread so far.

The Washington Post: “In the Mideast, U.S. policy is still driven by realism” (Eugene Robinson)
Is it realism, or is it surrealism? It is certainly frustrating the way we never seem to have money for anything but destruction. We can only laugh to keep from crying: The Daily Show for March 21 was devastating.

The Palace at 2:00 a.m.: “The House of Words (no. 1)”
Novelist and poet Marly Youmans kicked off what she promises will be a 25-part series “on persisting, giving up, and other topics” connected with the writing life.

Giving up writing is easier than persistence because–surprise!–nobody much will mind if you give up. It’s not like giving up a job with a salary; there are few reproaches, and in fact many of your near-and-dear will heave great buffalo sighs and snort with relief. People will be glad to think that you may be a solvent person some day, rather than a struggling writer with the usual garret, heaps of foolscap, and bargain Toshiba laptop.

The New York Review of Books Blog: “The New American Pessimism”
Charles Simic is smarter than your average poet.

They say the monkey scratches its fleas with the key that opens its cage. That may strike one as being very funny or very sad. Unfortunately, that’s where we are now.

t r u t h o u t : “Instead of Bombing Dictators, Stop Selling Them Bombs”
But Gaddafi promised he’d only use them on terrorists!

NewScientist: “Fake tweets by ‘socialbot’ fool hundreds of followers”
“The success suggests that socialbots could manipulate social networks on a larger scale, for good or ill.” Good idea. I’ve heard that terrorists can use Twitter and Facebook to foment unrest.

xkcd: “Beauty”
It’s not every day that I get to read a web comic about my favorite organism, the dog vomit slimemold.

O: Maria Shriver interviews Mary Oliver
I’m not entirely sure who Maria Shriver is — some sort of Kennedy, apparently — but somehow she managed to lure the famously reclusive poet out of her shell. (And I’m pleased to see O magazine devoting its April issue to poetry. Here’s the New Yorker’s review.)

Finally, here are a couple of videos from Plummer’s Hollow that complement this past week’s podcast, “Creatures of the Night.” Thanks to our neighbors Troy and Paula for doing such a great job documenting the local wildlife with multiple trail cameras and sides of venison for bait.


Watch on YouTube.


Watch on YouTube.

Woodrat Podcast 35: Creatures of the night

spring peeper, northern saw-whet owl, and American woodcock
Spring peeper, northern saw-whet owl, and American woodcock

It may feel and sometimes even still look like winter out there, but spring is on the march (so to speak). This is perhaps most evident after dark. Join me and some other folks for a night-time ramble through the March woods and wetlands of Central Pennsylvania. We’ll listen to a woodcock, a saw-whet owl, some creature whose identity I’m not certain of, spring peepers, and herpetologist Jim Julian from Penn State Altoona. Julian, an expert on seaonal wetlands ecology, leads the annual Vernal Pool Tour of the Scotia Barrens, sponsored by the Clearwater Conservancy. We all squish about looking for wood frogs and spotted salmanders on a cold and rainy night.

Note by the way that Woodrat podcast episodes can now be embedded on other websites and forums. Grab the code right below the player.

Podcast feed | Subscribe in iTunes

Photo credits, l-r: Norman Walsh (CC BY-NC), Dave Darney/USFWS, Tom Tetzner/USFWS. Theme music: “Le grand sequoia,” by Innvivo (Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike licence).