Along the beach, children gather by hand every form of salt their mothers can lay on beds of rice: clams and crabs, kelp; tangled strands of seaweed whose local name makes their sisters blush. On a rock ledge, a fleet of sea urchins: prize of maratangtang to tap around spike- circled waists for the crack to yield their orange suns. We drink the brine and spoon the roe bright and warm, straight from their cups. Water burns, entering the wound. Nostalgia: the tongue that moves toward what soothes and bristles at the same time.