The takeout place is still only a window. No one's allowed in to sit at oilcloth- covered tables. You can see the owners in the kitchen, plunging the fry baskets into hot oil, lifting them out and tipping wings into a plastic box. The girl takes your card and asks Soy sauce, duck sauce? It's the usual cornstarch-dredged pieces of chicken with a smattering of sesame seeds; rice or noodles on the side. "Happy Family" is still on the menu: that dish with three kinds of meat smothered in some kind of brown sauce, a chaos of vegetables seared in the pan.